Roofing & Exterior FAQs.

Most homes are 1-2 full crew days. Large or complex roofs (cut-ups, steep pitches, 40+ squares) can run 3-4 days. We do not leave a roof open overnight if weather is coming

Yes. We meet the adjuster on-site, document everything with drone photos, and bill the carrier directly. You pay your deductible, nothing else

50-year material warranty on GAF systems (lifetime on most shingles), plus our 15-year workmanship warranty. Transferable to new owner once

Asphalt shingles need 40°F for proper seal, but we do emergency repairs year-round and full re-roofs down to October in normal years. Metal installs any month

Hardie lasts longer (30+ years), won't burn, holds color better, but costs roughly 40% more installed. Vinyl is faster to install and easier to replace a damaged panel. Both get lifetime warranties now

Only if the existing ones are failing. But it's the cheapest time to replace them — no extra trim or flashing labor since we're already there. We'll tell you honestly if yours have 10 years left

Vinyl yes, Hardie no. We prefer full tear-off either way so we can inspect sheathing, re-wrap, re-flash. About 15% of homes show hidden moisture damage — better to find it now

Fiber cement 30-50 years. Insulated vinyl 25-40. Real cedar 20-30 with maintenance. All of our installs carry a 15-year workmanship warranty on top

6" handles roughly 40% more water and is what we recommend for most Hudson Valley roofs. 5" only if the roof is small or the look matters (6" is noticeably bigger).

Micro-mesh guard systems reduce debris buildup and seasonal cleanouts when the entire drainage path is properly sized and pitched.

32 standard baked-on enamel colors are available; custom RAL colors can match trim and siding.

Without guards, most Hudson Valley homes need cleaning twice a year — spring and fall. Guard systems cut that significantly depending on tree cover.

Most chimney leaks come from a failed crown, cap, or counter-flashing — not the roof field itself. We fix the source instead of smearing tar on the problem.

If flue tiles are cracked or the fireplace or appliance vent is unsafe, a stainless liner is often the right fix without rebuilding exterior brick.

Yes. Many projects need crown rebuild, new cap, and proper counter-flashing rather than a full chimney tear-down.

Structural rebuilds and some liner installs require permits. We handle local approvals and inspections as part of the scope.

Composite costs more upfront but needs no staining and carries 25–30 year fade warranties. Pressure-treated wood is economical; we recommend composite for low maintenance.

Typical single-level deck: 1–2 weeks including footing cure time and inspections. Multi-level or composite builds may run 2–3 weeks.

Yes. Decks over a certain height and all structural builds require permits in Orange County. We handle drawings, permits, and inspections.

Only if the ledger, joists, and footings pass inspection. About 30% of re-deck calls need partial framing replacement — we tell you before we start.

Most residential decks require 36" rail height; 42" is common for elevated decks. Stairs need graspable handrails per IRC.

Aluminum is low-maintenance with classic profiles. Cable rail maximizes views with marine-grade stainless lines — ideal for Hudson Valley lake and mountain views.

We match color, profile, and post style where manufacturers still offer the line. Custom powder-coat colors are available on aluminum systems.

Most residential deck or stair railing packages install in 1–2 days once materials arrive. Complex cable systems may need a second day for tensioning.

No. We handle interior restoration after any verified leak — roof, chimney, plumbing, or storm — once the source is fixed.

Yes. We duplicate knockdown, orange peel, and smooth finishes so patches disappear after paint.

Small patches: 1–3 days. Full room after water damage depends on drying verification — we will not close walls over active moisture.

We provide photo documentation and line-item scopes that adjusters expect for interior damage claims.

Yes. We handle full interior repaints, exterior siding and trim, plus deck and porch stain or solid-color coatings.

A typical 3-bedroom home takes 3–5 crew days depending on prep, ceiling height and how much furniture stays in place.

Yes. We work room by room, ventilate properly, and use low-VOC products when the home is occupied.

Always. We scrape, sand, spot-prime bare wood and caulk gaps before any topcoat — skipping prep is why cheap paint jobs fail in two seasons.

If the roof is under about 15 years old and the damage is in one area, a repair usually makes sense. Widespread curling, granule loss, several leaks or a roof over 20 years old usually means replacement. We will tell you which one we would do on our own house.

Most homes take one to two days. Larger or steeper roofs, or ones that need a lot of decking replaced, can take three to four.

No. Every replacement is a full tear-off so we can see and fix the deck before the new roof goes on.

Yes. If storm damage is the reason for the replacement, we document it with photos and can meet your adjuster on site.

Active leaks get priority. When a crew is available we can often inspect and tarp the same day in Orange County.

It depends on the cause — a pipe boot or a few shingles is a small job, while rebuilding chimney flashing takes longer. We give a written price after the inspection, before any work starts.

We match color and profile as closely as possible. On older or discontinued shingles a small color difference can show until the new shingles weather in.

If the roof is fairly young and the damage is in one area, repair it. If it is over 20 years old with problems in several places, a replacement is usually the better use of money. We will show you photos and explain why.

Yes. We photograph the damage, write up the repair scope and can meet the adjuster on site.

It helps to have a roofer document the damage first so you know what to report. We inspect, photograph the damage and give you a written scope you can use when you file the claim.

Look for dents in gutters, vents and downspouts. If soft metals are dented, the shingles were probably hit too. We mark test areas on the roof and photograph the bruising for your claim.

Yes. We walk the roof with the adjuster and point out each damaged area so nothing is left out of the claim.

Every policy is different, but most require you to report damage promptly. Check your policy and call us as soon as you can so the damage is documented while it is fresh.

Once a roof is about 10 years old, a check every year or two catches small problems early. Also get one after major storms and before buying or selling a house.

Most homes take under an hour, including the attic. Large or very steep roofs can take longer.

Yes. You receive photos of what we found and a plain-language recommendation you can share with your agent, insurer or family.

No. If the roof just needs a small repair or nothing at all, we will tell you that. Our recommendation is based on what the photos show.

Move belongings away from the leak, put a bucket under the drip and, if a ceiling is bulging, keep people away from it. Do not go up on a wet roof yourself.

A permanent repair needs dry conditions, but a tarp or temporary seal can usually be installed to stop the water until the weather clears.

Many policies cover sudden damage from storms or falling trees, including the cost to prevent further damage. We provide photos and a written scope to support your claim.

It depends on the size and location of the damage. We tell you the price before we start, and the tarp is often part of the insurance claim when storm damage caused it.